
The history of W & J Graham’s spans three centuries
and throughout that time this acclaimed Port producer has
remained an independent family business. The story of Graham’s
is the story of two families, both of Scottish origin – the
Grahams and the Symingtons – whose commitment to the
making of memorable wines has earned for Graham’s a
reputation as a leader in the production of outstanding Vintage
Ports.

The imposing proportions of the Graham’s Lodge (1905)
W & J Graham’s was founded in Oporto, Portugal’s
second city, in 1820 by the two brothers William and John Graham.
The Graham family already had extensive business interests
not just in their native Scotland but also in India. The success
of their affairs led to them being described by a contemporary
historian, as being “among the merchant princes of Great
Britain.”
The brothers formed the partnership of W & J Graham & Co.
with the aim of specialising in the production of the finest
Port wines. They channeled their considerable resources and
energy towards the pursuit of this goal.

Graham’s Lodge (1905)
Through the 19th century, Graham’s went from strength
to strength, attaining an unparalleled standing as a producer
of fine Vintage Ports. In 1890 Graham’s became one of
the first Port companies to invest in Upper Douro vineyards
with the acquisition of the famous property; Quinta dos Malvedos.
Using the extensive knowledge of the Douro Valley gained over
the previous seventy years, the Grahams chose an ideal place
to plant a vineyard; an excellent south-facing aspect, fine
soil composition, good gradients that facilitate drainage and
a perfectly sited ridge on which they built one of the finest
of all the Douro’s great estate houses. Since then Malvedos
has been recognized as one of the Douro Valley’s finest ‘river
Quintas,’ and the quality of the wines from the vineyard
continues to be fundamental to Graham’s reputation as
a leading producer of quite exceptional Vintage Port.
Bearing further testimony to the company’s successful
growth was the construction of a magnificent new lodge (wine
store), also in 1890, for the storage and maturing of the company’s
wines in the best possible conditions. The lodge was built
on an impressive scale, its sturdy granite walls still hold
within them over 3,500 casks of Port as well as many large
oak tonnels and extensive Vintage Port cellars. Erected on
a commanding site in Vila Nova de Gaia, a short distance from
the Atlantic Ocean, the Graham’s lodge enjoys magnificent
views of the ancient city of Oporto across the River Douro.
The temperate, maritime climate is ideally suited to the slow
ageing of Port.

A view of the city of Oporto from the balcony of Graham’s
Lodge (1905)
Meanwhile, Graham’s continued to nurture close ties
with the owners of the numerous Quintas that had traditionally
supplied the company since its foundation. This relationship,
built on mutual trust and respect, underpinned the consistency
of quality, which had earned Graham’s its high reputation.
Henry Vizetelly, author of “Facts about Port and Madeira”,
one of the most accurate and comprehensive books on Port of
the 19th century, leaves us in no doubt as to Graham’s
deep knowledge of the Douro vineyards and its leading position
as a producer of the highest quality Ports. Vizetelly wrote
in 1877, “Eastward…are several Quintas adjoining
each other, all of which yield high-class growths, purchased
for many years past by Messrs. W. and J. Graham, of Oporto…Many
of the best Quintas in the Upper Douro are concentrated hereabouts.”

The Malvedos house overlooking the river (1895)
A succession of superb Vintages were produced by Graham’s,
all landmarks in the history of Port; 1908, 1912, 1924 and
1927, followed by the monumental 1945 and the legendary 1948,
all confirmed Graham’s as one of the very finest names
in Port.

The legendary 1948 Vintage
Over half a century after the 1948 was made, Jancis Robinson
MW wrote (January 4th, 2005): “ I am still mentally wallowing
in what was probably the single finest wine I was lucky enough
to drink over the holidays – a well kept bottle of GRAHAM
1948…This was sublime…It was a stomping, attention-grabbing,
tub-thumping, speechifying Port full not just of violets and
liquorice and prunes, but also of grainy texture and vitality.
Everything seemed to be in balance and yet I would not be surprised
if it were still going strong in 20 or even 30 years’ time.”
It was this legacy of excellence that was relayed from one
family to another when in 1970 the Grahams sold the company
to the Symingtons who brought with them their own rich heritage
in the Port trade.

The winery at Quinta dos Malvedos. The exterior has remained
unchanged since it was built in 1890.
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