
The Symington family is firmly committed to innovation,
and over the last decade has conducted very substantial research
in the field of viticulture. Due to the uniqueness of the
growing conditions in the Douro and the indigenous grape
varieties, there is still much to be learned. The Symingtons
are at the forefront of a detailed investigation into the
relationship between the vinifera varietals used in Port
production and the rootstocks best suited to Douro conditions.
Based on these interactions the best selection can be made
for each site, matching the two components to optimise fruit
quality for any given wine style. While this might seem relatively
basic, the work is important as it simply hasn’t been
done by anyone else. Certain less-known but traditional local
varieties are also under evaluation as some of these forgotten
grapes have fascinating characteristics that can greatly benefit
the Port blends. In addition, the phenology of these rootstock
/ variety combinations is also under evaluation to better understand
their annual cycles and accordingly coordinate viticultural
operations more effectively.
This project has since been extended into vital clonal evaluation
– an area also in its infancy in the Douro. The Symingtons
now have vineyards planted with 16 clones of Touriga Nacional,
ten clones of Tinto Cão, eight clones each of Touriga
Franca and Tinta Roriz and four clones of Tinta Amarela. New
clonal plantings are ongoing, with further investigation of
improved clones of Tinta Roriz in particular planned for 2007.
This work has been backed up with clonal microvinifications.
The potential effect of irrigation on Port grapes is another
area that is virtually unstudied – in this case due to
legal restrictions hitherto. The Symingtons have installed
a small, custom-built irrigation plot specifically designed
for precise evaluation of this question at an experimental
level. This consists of ten sectors covering five different
grape varieties where the timing and quantity of water applications
can be controlled exactly. Each sector has an electronic timer
and a flow-meter for accurate manipulation of water dosage,
with a pluviometer on the dripper line to double-check watering
periods. All this information is backed up with real-time meteorological
data (including vapotranspiration) and soil moisture status
which is transmitted instantly from the location via radio
and internet.
In recent years the importance of matching appropriate canopy
management techniques to the grape variety and the location
has become increasingly well understood. Again, due to deep
traditionalism, the Douro has perhaps not embraced these advances
as quickly as it might have done.
Accordingly, the Symingtons have established vineyards enabling
some of the most recent developments in trellising systems
to be compared with their traditional counterparts. All of
these can therefore now be evaluated under Douro conditions
and using local varieties. These parcels contain six different
trellising systems, some developed recently in the New World
and others typical of the region, and the experiment is repeated
on two quintas in different parts of the Douro. As with all
these experiments, rigorous fruit analysis is carried out every
year, and comparative microvinifications are possible in a
dedicated winemaking facility.
In addition to these principal areas of research, Graham’s
is conscious of its responsibilities to protect the cultural
and environmental heritage of the Douro, itself a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. To this end, it runs an organic vineyard and
is currently investigating the possibilities of using alternatives
to herbicides for weed control. It is also responsible for
the recuperation of an area of ‘pilheiros’ – the
oldest method of establishing vineyards in the Douro. Under
this system, in addition to the vines planted normally on top
of narrow stone terraces, they are also grown horizontally
out of small holes in these walls, forming a second, laid-down
row of vines providing shade for those working on the terrace
below. This is the only such vineyard set out in this historical
fashion in the Douro, and probably in the world.
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Graham's viticulturist conducts
a field
experiment among the vines

Monitoring the fermentation
of an
experimental microvinification
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